I will be the first to admit it: this post is a year late. Life takes over and before you know it, a year has gone by. Yet, one of the most spectacular cities in Italy commands attention, especially when filled with contemporary art during the famed Biennale. Here is how I saw it.

THE BEST SITES AND CONTEMPORARY ART TO SEE:

Looking at the typical tourist snapshots, people could easily make the conclusion that Venice is all about history and romantic gondola rides. And they wouldn’t be wrong. The byzantine architecture of the San Marco Basilica, the imposing Doge’s palace that once housed not only the seat of the government but also a rather famous prisoner, the world’s greatest lover and seducer, Giacomo Casanova, the storied Teatro La Fenice, all keep the romanticism of Venice alive. They are magnificent, they are spectacular, and most definitely worth a visit.

For those seeking a more modern adventure, the year of the Biennale is the right time to visit. And that’s exactly what I did. Every other year, the art world descends on Venice and fills its parks, its streets, its campi, and its palaces with art that is thoroughly contemporary. For the hard core art enthusiast, Giardini is the first required stop. Filled with country-specific pavilions, you get an instant fill of sculpture, photography, sounds and inspiration from around the world. The minimalist in me appreciated the gorgeous photography of Tracey Moffatt in the Australia pavilion, Brigitte Kowanz’s work in the Austrian house, and Carol Bove’s sculpture in the women-centric show in the Swiss pavilion, and capped the visit with the must-have picture of the “Colourfall” by Ian Davenport.

With the fantastic renovation of the Punta della Dogana by Tadao Ando several years ago, a whole new contemporary art scene has sprouted in the Dorsoduro area between the Dogana and the Peggy Guggenheim museum. Allow yourself to get lost in the side streets and you will find lots of little galleries and contemporary design stores that are sure to pique your interest. I liked the Marignana Arte and Galleria L’Occhio.

DESIGN SHOPS TO EXPLORE:

If you escape the big brand names scattered in Le Mercerie and are willing to explore, you can find plenty to appeal to a more modern, minimalist taste. I found a few great stores just walking around the Dorsoduro and Giudecca – be it the iconic Fortuny shop and factory or the streamlined simple Murano glass jewelry of Nason Giorgio. For those walking around town, you may stop by the Small caps graphic design print shop.

BOUTIQUE HOTELS TO STAY IN:

If velvet and opulence are not your thing (that is certainly true for me), and if you like staying close to the Dorsoduro art scene, check out Charming House DD724 that is around the corner from the Peggy Guggenheim museum. I have stayed there a few times and always enjoyed it. Design lovers will also appreciate the Philippe Starck designed Palazzina G hotel.
Spettacolare!