MASTERFULLY MODERN IN MALTA

Valetta Gate

Malta, one of the world’s smallest countries, has been inhabited since 5900 BC. (No wonder the Game of Thrones team picked it as one of their film locations!) A strategically important naval base in the center of the Mediterranean, it’s been ruled by the Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, Normans, Sicilians, Spanish, Knights of St. John, French, and British. Given the country’s ancient culture, it would be easy to dismiss it as a destination for the modern minimalist traveler. I encourage you to give it a try.

SEE:

The capital city of Valetta is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and has much to offer to any self-respecting history buff, from the imposing and uniquely named St. John’s Co-Cathedral with its ornate gilded interior and its prized Caravaggio, to the Grand Master’s Palace with its frescoed ceilings and citrus-tree lined courtyards. The sister cities of Vittoriosa (or Birgu), Senglea, and Cospicua let you wander around admiring the island’s many colorful doorways and covered balconies, visiting old Fort d’Angelo, or relaxing in one of the cute cafes that line the Grand Harbour and Birgu’s busy marina. Mediterranean island visit: mission accomplished.

My modern art lover’s heart, however, jumped for joy at the sight of a more recent addition to the capital: Renzo Piano’s spectacular Valetta City Gate with its streamlined steel blades standing guard at the entrance to the old walled city, inviting the visitor to enter and admire the new (and terrific!) Parliament Building. I loved everything about it, from the bleached limestone blocks to the clean, simple geometry. 

Valetta’s modern architecture does not stop there. Walk for a few more minutes and you will find yourself at the Upper Barakka Gardens. Relax among blossoming trees and admire the spectacular Grand Harbour views, or channel your inner child and play in the musical fountain rising from the ground in St. George’s Square.

Push yourselves to venture beyond Valetta and explore Mdina, the Silent city. It, too, possesses an impressive and thoroughly modern entrance and its historic streets are so streamlined that they will appeal to your contemporary tastes as well. 

No visit to Malta would be complete without a trip to the Gozo island. While I was lucky to catch one of the last glimpses of its famous Azure Window before storms swept it into the sea, you will still be able to admire the building genius of the Neolithic Ġgantija temples (another UNESCO heritage site), the simple architecture of the Citadel, and Calypso’s cave from Homer’s Odyssey.

STAY:

The modern accommodation is still finding its way to Malta, but choices are starting to open up. We had a great time at the Hotel Juliani but also liked the contemporary design of the Casa Ellul.

EAT:

With so many outdoor cafes, it’s easy to just pick whatever spot catches your eyes. For us one of the more memorable experiences was dining at Lulu’s at St. Julian’s as the owner stopped by to regale us with fun stories of the island life.