ART AMONG THE PALM TREES

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When I initially started planning my trip to Palm Springs, I met with some questions. Why are you going there? You will be missing Coachella! Modernism week is in February, not now! Will you be the youngest one there? All valid questions, reflecting the questioner’s personal preferences. And, to be fair the timing did put me in this storied resort town a bit off-season. But it fit my calendar, and that’s what matters.

LET’S START AT THE MUSEUM

The purpose of this trip was to relax and unwind. For me, that means finding good contemporary art galleries and museums and taking a peek. The first stop was a mere couple of minutes’ walk from my hotel: the brutalist structure housing the Palm Springs Art Museum. That’s where the first surprise awaited me.

Approaching the plaza in front of the museum I noticed a familiar set of sculptures - the giant crawling babies that I had last seen climbing the TV tower in Prague. A Czech girl comes to Palm Springs to see - Czech art? What are the odds! A closer read confirmed what I already knew - David Cerny’s babies are part of the local public art installation. And they are keeping company to another (infamous?) larger-than-life sculpture: “Forever Marilyn” by Seward Johnson. Caught in her iconic pose with her dress mid flight, Marilyn faces towards the downtown Palm Springs with her “derriere deshabillee” facing the museum. I have heard that perhaps this was a tiny deliberate act of rebellion by the artist? Today, Marilyn has plenty of company every day with tourists posing while peeking up her dress “for the ‘gram.” I chose to take my photo from a bit farther away.

The museum was a pleasant surprise. Currently housing a show by Gonzalo Ebrija, the entrance is unmissable with the upside down car planted among the palm trees. Inside, there is a little bit of everything, including a lot of contemporary art, much to my delight. There are works by John Chamberlain, Robert Irwin, Anish Kapoor, Anselm Kiefer, Donald Judd and right now, also Leon Polk Smith. And, some really good glass sculptures, including my favorite one by John Kiley. A great first stop for this art explorer.

ART IN… PALM DESERT

After the museum, where does one go next? In Palm Springs, you pop over to the Palm Desert neighborhood. That’s where the galleries are. Here, the art is different. As if to provide a bold counterweight to the muted desert color palette, a lot of Palm Desert galleries show art that is bursting with color and attitude. It pops, it leaves little to imagination and it gets in your face. So, if your taste runs towards pop art or bold abstraction, this is your destination. You can start at the large and eclectic CODA Gallery with its unmissable art wall and windmill garden outside. Or, if you want something even bolder, Elena Bulatova gallery is your go-to. My personal favorite was the slightly more minimalist J. Willot Gallery with its many pieces by John Kiley, my new favorite glassblower!

THE MECCA OF MODERNISM

Art is always on my mind. But what truly brought me to Palm Springs are the amazing modernist homes that you can find here.

And - as luck would have it - Modernism Week actually DOES happen outside of its February main slot! I accidentally timed my trip to coincide with its May installment and was able to get a couple tours scheduled. Great vacation karma, once again (friends reading this will understand). Yes, one can book the “celebrity” version, but I would strongly encourage you to find a true architecture tour. Even better if you find one that’s led by modernism guru Trevor, a trusted guide who knows every tiny detail and piece of information about every house. You will get to see the Alexander houses in the Las Palmas neighborhood, Frank Sinatra’s Twin Palms Estate, Albert Frey house, the home recently bought by “Leo” (Di Caprio) and many, many others. For me, the tour checked off another “bucket list” item: it brought me to the jewel that I had always admired - the Kaufmann House by Richard Neutra. It was love at first sight.

The second Modernism Week tour took me to the Indian Canyons neighborhood known for its spectacular William Krisel model homes (and for the instagram-savvy folks, the bright colored doors). Home after home dazzles you with its (mostly bright white) exterior, complemented by one of the many (did you know that there are over 70 designs?) breeze block patterns that are so iconic for the modernist architecture. Some have lawns, but most have adopted “zero scaping” to more thoughtfully integrate into the region’s desert climate. You can pass by the house that Mickey (Mouse) built, and if you bring binoculars or simply pay attention, you can also spot the giant masterful Bob Hope Residence on a hill above the city. From afar it looks a bit like a turtle :). All of it is a true feast for the eyes and if you are in the area, do not miss it.