ANTWERP (AND A BIT OF BELGIUM): WHY THE BLANK STARES WERE WRONG

When I told people I was heading to Belgium for a long weekend, the reactions were... let's say underwhelming. Blank stares. A few polite "oh, nice"s. A response that suggests people aren't entirely sure why anyone would go.

But I had my reasons. I had lived in Belgium as a kid and hadn't been back in a while. I wanted to revisit. I'd also been hearing good things about Antwerp from a design and art perspective for some time. And honestly? Sometimes you just need to get away for a few days. So, did it work? Completely.

Het Zuid: Antwerp's art district

As I always do, I did a bit of research ahead of time. And I found that there's a whole gallery neighborhood in Antwerp: Het Zuid. Naturally, I headed straight there when I got to Anwerp.

One of the first stops was Galley LeClair on Kloosterstraat. I got to see a mix of different artists’ works - Mathijs Siemens, vandeCamp & Heesterbeek, Daniel O'Toole, and Call me Frank which was, frankly (pun intended) one of my faves. Definitely a lucky find and a gallery that made me stand still and just explore the art.

Then, I found what turned out to be one of the highlights of the whole trip: IN-DEPENDANCE gallery on the Waalsekaai. My kind of place. Founded by the same people behind IBASHO (a Japanese photography gallery), the gallery focuses on Western photography and other visual arts, with an understated aesthetic at its heart. I saw a fabulous show by Laurent Millet that helped me discover his subtle dreamy, slightly surreal black and white images. I really loved it. There is something quietly theatrical about his compositions.

What made this visit even better was an impromptu conversation with the gallerist about our shared love of Michael Kenna, whose snowy landscapes I have admired for years. Those are the moments travel gives you that no guidebook can plan.  

Then it was on to Molo Gallery, a newer contemporary space in a corner building in the neighborhood. Unfortunately, it was closed during my visit, as was Tim Van Laere, one of Antwerp's heavyweights. So, I just admired the outside installations. Both galleries are firmly on the list for next time.

Gallery Sofie Van de Velde was open, fortunately. The White Room exhibition by Christopher Colm Morrin with intimate canvases that operate somewhere between how something looks and what it physically is is the kind that I always appreciate. Worth noting: Morrin was showing alongside a tribute to Marina Yee, one of the Antwerp Six who passed away in 2025. A moving coincidence given what I'd just seen at MoMu.

I didn't make it to Everyday Gallery this time (the unfortunate decision to make my trip during a long weekend when some galleries were closed in preparation for the upcoming ArtWeekend) but I want to mention it for anyone planning their own Het Zuid walk. And if photography is your thing, don't overlook IBASHO itself. A gallery with a "less is more" philosophy. That tells you everything you need to know.

MoMu: the unexpected highlight

In the centre of Antwerp sits MoMu, the city's fashion museum, which is currently housing one of the more fascinating exhibitions I've seen in a while. And I say that as someone who would not describe herself as a fashion expert.

The Antwerp Six show traces the story of six Belgian fashion designers (Dirk Bikkembergs, Ann Demeulemeester, Walter Van Beirendonck, Dries Van Noten, Dirk Van Saene and Marina Yee) who piled into a van in 1986, drove to London Fashion Week, and changed fashion forever. It's the first major exhibition ever devoted to all six of them together. Well curated and beautifully presented. Full write-up already on my Substack. Go find it if you haven't read it yet.

Hotel Julien: where you actually want to stay

I always do a bit of research on my hotels, too. This time, I picked Hotel Julien and I loved it. Two restored 16th-century townhouses in the heart of the city, redesigned by Peter Ivens and Bea Mombaers with their signature layered sensibility. My room, just under the roof (beware: no elevator. Consider it your daily exercise.), was the kind of space I gravitate toward: exposed beams, natural textures, Carrara marble bathroom, clean, calm and beautiful. Photography from a local gallery on the walls. Aesop in the bathroom. The rooftop terrace with a view of the cathedral. It's intimate (just 21 rooms) and it feels like it. More like staying in a very well-designed home than a hotel. I’d go back in a heartbeat.

On the subject of eating and drinking…

Antwerp's dining scene is not to be underestimated. I got to explore Bar Misera and Soixante, both of which were excellent. Great food, great atmosphere, very Antwerp in the best way. I didn’t book sufficiently to get into my namesake, Jane - but this way, I have something for my next visit!

For the early morning walks, Toi Toi local café was a perfect stop for a genuinely good cappuccino. Sometimes that's all you need.

A day trip to Bruges

No trip to Belgium feels complete without at least a nod to Bruges, the Venice of the North. The canals, the cobblestones, the medieval architecture. My Mom always loved stopping by to see Michelangelo’s Madonna in the Church of Our Lady. She passed away a couple of years ago, so standing in front of it again felt special and made me feel closer to her once again. I miss her.

But Bruges isn't only history. I happened to stop into a contemporary gallery there, Absolute Art. It was a genuinely good reminder that even the most picturesque medieval cities have a contemporary art scene!

So. Belgium, it turns out, does not deserve the blank stares. Come for the art. Stay for the cappuccino and the canals. You'll find plenty to keep you busy.

SIGNAL FESTIVAL 2024: IMMERSIVE LIGHT INSTALLATIONS AND DIGITAL ART AT PRAGUE'S ICONIC LANDMARKS

SpY Orb, Prague Castle

There’s something truly magical about wandering the streets of Prague during Signal Festival. For twelve years now, every mid-October, the city becomes a living canvas, blending the historical grandeur of its architecture with the vibrant pulse of digital art.

This year was no different. And, since I was in Prague during this time, for the first time in years, it was only natural for me to dive into the magic on a Friday night, trying to cover as much of both festival routes as possible.

I started out in Kunsthalle, in the paid “Gallery Zone” portion of the festival. The gallery is home to the “Strange Attractions” show by United Visual Artists which was recommended by the festival founder himself. I liked it and I think you might too (it’s on display at the gallery for a few days after the official end of the festival on October 13). That said, one of my absolute highlights was the SpY ORB in the South Gardens of Prague Castle. It’s a glowing sphere that felt both otherworldly and perfectly in tune with the impressive castle surroundings. There’s something about the way it just hangs there in the dark, drawing you in with its simplicity and size. I found myself standing there mesmerized, taking in the sight (and trying to find the best angle to capture the sculpture) as the light shifted subtly across the orb’s surface.

Another standout for me was the Dimensional Sampling by Cao Yuxi at Staroměstské náměstí (Old Town Square). This LED projection installation transformed a portion of the square with its dynamic, cube-shaped light show. It felt surreal, juxtaposed with the medieval architecture of the House at the Stone Bell and the Tyn Church nearby. I was completely captivated by the interplay of light and shadow as the cube pulsed and glowed, almost like a beacon of the future in the heart of old Prague.

Of course, the Gallery Zone is a must-see if you want to dive even deeper into the festival. Besides the UVA work at Kunsthalle, I managed to see the installation by Seohyo at the Prague Castle Riding Hall and genuinely enjoyed it.

It’s one thing to see these installations, but the experience of exploring both the Hradčany and Centrum routes really lets you dive into the full spectrum of what Signal Festival offers. From digital projections on the Archbishop’s Palace to the surreal sculptures in Sternberg Palace, every turn reveals something new and unexpected. I’m glad I ventured out into the evening to take it all in.

If you’re in Prague in October, do yourself a favor and experience this festival—it’s a feast for the senses, and you won’t regret it!

If you're interested in exploring more about contemporary art and immersive travel experiences, I recommend checking out Loves Art Will Travel’s post on discovering Uhelny Mlyn, a hidden contemporary gallery just outside Prague. The blog delves into the charm of this industrial-modern space, much like Signal Festival’s own exploration of blending history and modern art. You can read more about it here

YAYOI KUSAMA HIDING IN PLAIN SIGHT AT THE SERRALVES MUSEUM IN PORTO

Porto. A city best known for its “shabby chic” tiled architecture, vertigo-inducing iconic bridges and countless brands of Port wine from the Douro valley is currently also playing host to a fabulous art show by Yayoi Kusama. The local Serralves museum has organized a show called “YAYOI KUSAMA: 1945 TO NOW” that is on display through the end of September.

It was only natural, then, that I took myself and my fortunately very willing friend to see the show during a recent visit to Porto. The start was not for the faint-of-heart. Long lines stretching round the block almost immediately made us question the wisdom of going on a Sunday (especially on a day that was free of charge for local residents), but fortunately, once the museum gates opened, the line moved quickly and within a few minutes we were inside, ready to see Ms. Kusama.

The show, featuring about 160 works, including paintings, drawings, sculptures and installations, covers Kusama’s avant-garde vision from the 1940s through present time, focusing on the different aspects of her interest in interconnection and reflections on natural cycles of regeneration. You will see videos from the artist’s life, her evolving style of painting and her playful installations - from the iconic yellow pumpkins to a profound childlike joy-inducing black and white dotted infinity room (a nice benefit - unlike during the Zwirner show in New York, the wait time here lasts minutes rather than hours! And yes, you will have a lot of fun. We sure did.)

This exhibition is organised by M+, Hong Kong in collaboration with the Serralves Foundation and the Guggenheim Museum Bilbao, curated by Doryun Chong and Mika Yoshitake, supported by Isabella Tam.

For those who are craving even more contemporary art, Porto offers its Art District centered around the Rue de Miguel Bombarda that is lined with many smaller galleries - from Presenca gallery on one end to the more commercial Tilsitt gallery on the other end. Other great galleries are sprinkled throughout the city, such as the great Nuno Centeno or Lehmann + Silva. Just make sure you time your visit after the summer holiday when many galleries close.

Where to stay? Porto is a very walkable city (well, if you don’t mind the cobble stoned streets and its hilly landscape - this is definitely a sneaker town, leave your heels at home) so pick an accommodation that is centrally located. We stayed at the Pousada do Porto and loved its quiet room right off the major pedestrian zone.

Bem vindo ao Porto!

Expanding the Kusama Experience: Kistefos Museum

If you’re a fan of Kusama’s work, another breathtaking destination to consider is the Kistefos Museum in Norway. Home to the famous Twist building designed by Bjarke Ingels, Kistefos features a vast contemporary art sculpture park where Kusama’s vibrant works are displayed alongside other renowned artists like Anish Kapoor and Olafur Eliasson. Located in the Norwegian woods, Kistefos offers a unique blend of art and nature, creating an experience that's both immersive and tranquil—much like Kusama’s works themselves. For more details on the museum, check out my post on Kistefos Museum here.