ART AMONG THE PALM TREES

When I initially started planning my trip to Palm Springs, I met with some questions. Why are you going there? You will be missing Coachella! Modernism week is in February, not now! Will you be the youngest one there? All valid questions, reflecting the questioner’s personal preferences. And, to be fair the timing did put me in this storied resort town a bit off-season. But it fit my calendar, and that’s what matters.

LET’S START AT THE MUSEUM

The purpose of this trip was to relax and unwind. For me, that means finding good contemporary art galleries and museums and taking a peek. The first stop was a mere couple of minutes’ walk from my hotel: the brutalist structure housing the Palm Springs Art Museum. That’s where the first surprise awaited me.

Approaching the plaza in front of the museum I noticed a familiar set of sculptures - the giant crawling babies that I had last seen climbing the TV tower in Prague. A Czech girl comes to Palm Springs to see - Czech art? What are the odds! A closer read confirmed what I already knew - David Cerny’s babies are part of the local public art installation. And they are keeping company to another (infamous?) larger-than-life sculpture: “Forever Marilyn” by Seward Johnson. Caught in her iconic pose with her dress mid flight, Marilyn faces towards the downtown Palm Springs with her “derriere deshabillee” facing the museum. I have heard that perhaps this was a tiny deliberate act of rebellion by the artist? Today, Marilyn has plenty of company every day with tourists posing while peeking up her dress “for the ‘gram.” I chose to take my photo from a bit farther away.

The museum was a pleasant surprise. Currently housing a show by Gonzalo Ebrija, the entrance is unmissable with the upside down car planted among the palm trees. Inside, there is a little bit of everything, including a lot of contemporary art, much to my delight. There are works by John Chamberlain, Robert Irwin, Anish Kapoor, Anselm Kiefer, Donald Judd and right now, also Leon Polk Smith. And, some really good glass sculptures, including my favorite one by John Kiley. A great first stop for this art explorer.

ART IN… PALM DESERT

After the museum, where does one go next? In Palm Springs, you pop over to the Palm Desert neighborhood. That’s where the galleries are. Here, the art is different. As if to provide a bold counterweight to the muted desert color palette, a lot of Palm Desert galleries show art that is bursting with color and attitude. It pops, it leaves little to imagination and it gets in your face. So, if your taste runs towards pop art or bold abstraction, this is your destination. You can start at the large and eclectic CODA Gallery with its unmissable art wall and windmill garden outside. Or, if you want something even bolder, Elena Bulatova gallery is your go-to. My personal favorite was the slightly more minimalist J. Willot Gallery with its many pieces by John Kiley, my new favorite glassblower!

THE MECCA OF MODERNISM

Art is always on my mind. But what truly brought me to Palm Springs are the amazing modernist homes that you can find here.

And - as luck would have it - Modernism Week actually DOES happen outside of its February main slot! I accidentally timed my trip to coincide with its May installment and was able to get a couple tours scheduled. Great vacation karma, once again (friends reading this will understand). Yes, one can book the “celebrity” version, but I would strongly encourage you to find a true architecture tour. Even better if you find one that’s led by modernism guru Trevor, a trusted guide who knows every tiny detail and piece of information about every house. You will get to see the Alexander houses in the Las Palmas neighborhood, Frank Sinatra’s Twin Palms Estate, Albert Frey house, the home recently bought by “Leo” (Di Caprio) and many, many others. For me, the tour checked off another “bucket list” item: it brought me to the jewel that I had always admired - the Kaufmann House by Richard Neutra. It was love at first sight.

The second Modernism Week tour took me to the Indian Canyons neighborhood known for its spectacular William Krisel model homes (and for the instagram-savvy folks, the bright colored doors). Home after home dazzles you with its (mostly bright white) exterior, complemented by one of the many (did you know that there are over 70 designs?) breeze block patterns that are so iconic for the modernist architecture. Some have lawns, but most have adopted “zero scaping” to more thoughtfully integrate into the region’s desert climate. You can pass by the house that Mickey (Mouse) built, and if you bring binoculars or simply pay attention, you can also spot the giant masterful Bob Hope Residence on a hill above the city. From afar it looks a bit like a turtle :). All of it is a true feast for the eyes and if you are in the area, do not miss it.

ENTERTAIN ME, KATE

These are heavy times. After two years of pandemic lockdowns, just as we were all looking forward to restarting life as we once knew it, one pitiful, evil little man’s ego launched a European war that nobody wanted. Suddenly, we’re all feeling the whiplash. It would be really easy to curl up on the couch with gloom and doom thoughts swirling around in our heads. But these days, we’re all also trying to find joy and more lighthearted moments in our lives.

For me, one such joyful moment was coming across the surreal, playful, colorful fantasy world of Kate Theo.

KATE AND HER WONDERFUL TECHNICOLOR WORLD

Who is Kate, you ask? Kate Theo (@katethheo79 on Instagram), or Katerina if you go by her given name, originally grew up in Greece. An artist at heart from a young age, she first discovered a love for painting. Later on, her creative pursuits brought her to Florence where she studied architecture before eventually settling in Puglia in southern Italy where she now lives with her family.

Today, Kate’s work is is inspired by fashion, art and design that she’s surrounded herself with throughout her entire life.

But it’s her imagination, and her ability to take a few simple shapes or poses and create a minimalist but engaging image that drew me to Kate’s work. She’s not afraid to use a pop of color, a tongue-in-cheek posing or a little bit of whimsy. And voila! Suddenly, Kate’s caught your attention and you’re ready to play. Where will you start?

USE YOUR IMAGINATION

The colors draw you in, but there’s also depth that underlies Kate’s work. She creates scenes that are designed to leave something for you, the viewer, to discover. The big and bright color blocks of blue, yellow, red, or green are also a perfect backdrop for your own thinking: Are you loving the sunny yellow? Or are you more into the moody blues today? Is the person facing away from you just shy or are they secretly laughing at something? Kate allows room for audiences to use their imagination in interpreting her simple, playful but always well thought out compositions. It’s the perfect antidote to the craziness that surrounds us. So, are you ready to dive in?

All images by @katetheo79

DREAMY DIOR DIARY

I am a thoroughly modern girl who loves minimalist design. My fashion tastes run towards the understated as well. But I know to give credit where credit is due, and the current “Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams” show at the Brooklyn Art Museum certainly deserves it. It is, as the title of this post suggests, dreamy.

“My dresses make a princess out of every woman.” — Christian Dior

The show which opened at The Brooklyn Art Museum in early September and runs through February traces the 70+-year history of the House of Dior through a brilliant experiential extravaganza full of gowns, videos, photos, sketches and accessories.

Upon entry, you’re treated to the early days of Dior. Larger-than life illustrations, 1950s dresses and suits, newspaper clippings commemorating the opening of the designer’s first New York City outpost at 730 Fifth Avenue. Weaving through the early designs, I was struck by how timeless and imminently wearable the “high fashion” was at the time. It’s not that difficult to imagine picking an outfit or two and trying them on, even today.

DIOR THROUGH A PHOTOGRAPHER’S LENS

Next stop on the journey made the photography lover in me jump for joy. The curators have compiled an outstanding collection of Dior’s advertising campaign photographs. A veritable who’s who of fashion photography, including Lillian Bassman, Louise Dahl-Wolfe, Arthur Elgort, Horst P. Horst, William Klein, David LaChapelle, Annie Leibovitz, Gordon Parks, Irving Penn, Herb Ritts, Cass Bird and Tyler Mitchell. And the arrangements are amazing. Richard Avedon’s iconic “Dovima With Elephants, Evening Dress by Dior” photograph from 1955 is set against the actual Dior haute couture gown it pictures. Another iconic photograph, Bert Stern’s Marilyn Monroe’s 1962 “The Last Sitting” is just a few steps away.

“THE PROMENADE”

But all of this is just the appetizer preparing you for the main course that is the “promenade” of sorts that walks you through the brand’s history, one creative director at a time. Step by step, you are here to discover the personalities, the colors, the detail, the focus. From the relatively simple “New Look” of the early years, the architecturally refined pieces by Gianfranco Ferrè that followed, to the fantastical over-the-top creations by John Galliano, the modernity of Raf Simons and finally, to Maria Grazia Chiuri who, as the first female creative director in the history of the brand, is both bringing the brand back to its more classical roots while also infusing it with a bit of feminism.

THE ENCHANTED GARDEN

Just when you feel you’ve seen it all, the curators pull another rabbit out of the hat. Welcome to the “Enchanted garden.”

The museum’s 10,000-square-foot Beaux-Arts Court has been transformed into an enchanted garden filled with spectacular embroidered and flower-covered dresses that surround you at every step. Some line up in several “catwalks”. Others assemble in trios that “guard” the corners of the court. And many others encourage you to tilt your head up in admiration, as gown after gown have been arranged vertically all the way to the ceiling in one dizzying display after another. With clouds and flowers projected onto the background and subtle music playing around you, the garden steals your heart and helps you lose yourself in the feeling.

RED CARPET EXIT

Delighted by your garden experience, you might be floating on cloud nine. But, Monsieur Dior is not done with you yet. For his “adieu”, he’s got one more trick up his sleeve. Dresses that were seen the world over, worn by the most talented actresses at the pinnacle of their acting careers and being recognized for their art. So take a breath, and walk through this last award ceremony gown hall. Only then you will feel you’ve completed the mission and can return to the reality. Merci, et au revoir, Monsieur Dior!