When I told people I was heading to Belgium for a long weekend, the reactions were... let's say underwhelming. Blank stares. A few polite "oh, nice"s. A response that suggests people aren't entirely sure why anyone would go.

But I had my reasons. I had lived in Belgium as a kid and hadn't been back in a while. I wanted to revisit. I'd also been hearing good things about Antwerp from a design and art perspective for some time. And honestly? Sometimes you just need to get away for a few days. So, did it work? Completely.

Het Zuid: Antwerp's art district

As I always do, I did a bit of research ahead of time. And I found that there's a whole gallery neighborhood in Antwerp: Het Zuid. Naturally, I headed straight there when I got to Anwerp.

One of the first stops was Galley LeClair on Kloosterstraat. I got to see a mix of different artists’ works - Mathijs Siemens, vandeCamp & Heesterbeek, Daniel O'Toole, and Call me Frank which was, frankly (pun intended) one of my faves. Definitely a lucky find and a gallery that made me stand still and just explore the art.

Then, I found what turned out to be one of the highlights of the whole trip: IN-DEPENDANCE gallery on the Waalsekaai. My kind of place. Founded by the same people behind IBASHO (a Japanese photography gallery), the gallery focuses on Western photography and other visual arts, with an understated aesthetic at its heart. I saw a fabulous show by Laurent Millet that helped me discover his subtle dreamy, slightly surreal black and white images. I really loved it. There is something quietly theatrical about his compositions.

What made this visit even better was an impromptu conversation with the gallerist about our shared love of Michael Kenna, whose snowy landscapes I have admired for years. Those are the moments travel gives you that no guidebook can plan.

Then it was on to Molo Gallery, a newer contemporary space in a corner building in the neighborhood. Unfortunately, it was closed during my visit, as was Tim Van Laere, one of Antwerp's heavyweights. So, I just admired the outside installations. Both galleries are firmly on the list for next time.

Gallery Sofie Van de Velde was open, fortunately. The White Room exhibition by Christopher Colm Morrin with intimate canvases that operate somewhere between how something looks and what it physically is is the kind that I always appreciate. Worth noting: Morrin was showing alongside a tribute to Marina Yee, one of the Antwerp Six who passed away in 2025. A moving coincidence given what I'd just seen at MoMu.

I didn't make it to Everyday Gallery this time (the unfortunate decision to make my trip during a long weekend when some galleries were closed in preparation for the upcoming ArtWeekend) but I want to mention it for anyone planning their own Het Zuid walk. And if photography is your thing, don't overlook IBASHO itself. A gallery with a "less is more" philosophy. That tells you everything you need to know.

MoMu: the unexpected highlight

In the centre of Antwerp sits MoMu, the city's fashion museum, which is currently housing one of the more fascinating exhibitions I've seen in a while. And I say that as someone who would not describe herself as a fashion expert.

The Antwerp Six show traces the story of six Belgian fashion designers (Dirk Bikkembergs, Ann Demeulemeester, Walter Van Beirendonck, Dries Van Noten, Dirk Van Saene and Marina Yee) who piled into a van in 1986, drove to London Fashion Week, and changed fashion forever. It's the first major exhibition ever devoted to all six of them together. Well curated and beautifully presented. Full write-up already on my Substack. Go find it if you haven't read it yet.

Hotel Julien: where you actually want to stay

I always do a bit of research on my hotels, too. This time, I picked Hotel Julien and I loved it. Two restored 16th-century townhouses in the heart of the city, redesigned by Peter Ivens and Bea Mombaers with their signature layered sensibility. My room, just under the roof (beware: no elevator. Consider it your daily exercise.), was the kind of space I gravitate toward: exposed beams, natural textures, Carrara marble bathroom, clean, calm and beautiful. Photography from a local gallery on the walls. Aesop in the bathroom. The rooftop terrace with a view of the cathedral. It's intimate (just 21 rooms) and it feels like it. More like staying in a very well-designed home than a hotel. I’d go back in a heartbeat.

On the subject of eating and drinking…

Antwerp's dining scene is not to be underestimated. I got to explore Bar Misera and Soixante, both of which were excellent. Great food, great atmosphere, very Antwerp in the best way. I didn’t book sufficiently to get into my namesake, Jane - but this way, I have something for my next visit!

For the early morning walks, Toi Toi local café was a perfect stop for a genuinely good cappuccino. Sometimes that's all you need.

A day trip to Bruges

No trip to Belgium feels complete without at least a nod to Bruges, the Venice of the North. The canals, the cobblestones, the medieval architecture. My Mom always loved stopping by to see Michelangelo’s Madonna in the Church of Our Lady. She passed away a couple of years ago, so standing in front of it again felt special and made me feel closer to her once again. I miss her.

But Bruges isn't only history. I happened to stop into a contemporary gallery there, Absolute Art. It was a genuinely good reminder that even the most picturesque medieval cities have a contemporary art scene!

So. Belgium, it turns out, does not deserve the blank stares. Come for the art. Stay for the cappuccino and the canals. You'll find plenty to keep you busy.