BERLIN: TAKE TWO. CIRCLING BACK TO THE GALLERIES I MISSED LAST TIME
Since I moved to Prague last year, I have made it my mission to explore the art not just in the city itself, but also in the surrounding metropolises. And, since I missed a few important galleries last time, Berlin was back on the list. I know — a mid-November visit doesn’t promise much in terms of weather. And true to form, gray skies (this time coupled with cold rain) could have easily put one off. But I planned ahead a bit better, and this time, interesting art awaited.
Boros Collection
Better informed this time around, I booked a guided tour well ahead of the trip. And I am very glad I did. Right from the get-go, the collection makes an impression. Housed in a monolithic five-story, 3,000-square-meter bunker built in 1943 to shelter Berliners during air raids, the building has a fascinating history. It was later used by the Red Army as a prisoner-of-war camp, then as a textile and fruit storage facility for the East German government (earning it the nickname "Banana Bunker") before being abandoned and becoming home to techno raves.
In 2003, art collectors Christian and Karen Boros purchased the building and, keeping much of its raw appearance, transformed it into a spectacular backdrop for their private collection. The “bunker” exhibitions show only a portion of their collection and rotate every four years to reflect new acquisitions and site-specific works. The current (fourth) show includes works by Jean-Marie Appriou, Eliza Douglas, Yngve Holen, Klára Hosnedlová, Anne Imhof, Anna Uddenberg, Bunny Rogers, Julius von Bismarck, He Xiangyu,and others. It completes its run in January, with a new show opening in May. If you’re visiting Berlin next year, put it on your list. The art curation and the amazingly knowledgeable guides make it well worth your while.
A little trivia: the owners’ apartment on the top floor was used as Cate Blanchett/Lydia Tár’s home in the movie TÁR.
Berlinische Galerie.
If hulking bunkers aren’t your thing and you’re looking for a slightly less history-laden building, Berlinische Galerie is an excellent alternative. Another one that slipped off my list during my last visit, and something I was determined to correct this time.
Founded in 1975 and now located in Berlin’s Kreuzberg district, the gallery focuses on modern art, photography, and architecture created in Berlin. The upper floors house the permanent collection, while the ground floor spaces rotate special exhibitions. During this visit we saw innovative metal sculptures by Brigitte Meier-Denninghoff, one of the most successful women in post-war sculpture, a retrospective of Raoul Hausmann (“Vision. Provocation. Dada.”), and my personal favorite, “Hero” by Monira Al Qadiri, that examines the social, cultural, and environmental dimensions of the oil industry.
Johann König Galerie
Johann König Galerie
Just steps from Berlinische, another gem is quietly waiting, hiding in a converted old church of St. Agnes. I will admit, it was the clean and minimalist architecture that first put the gallery on my list. The original brutalist building by Werner Düttmann from the 1960s is, at least in my eyes, gorgeous. And yes, the art inside is not too shabby, either. I liked the very tactile conceptual landscape works of Sven Drühl. Though they capture the energy of the sea and the mountains, there are also some simply peaceful pieces. And that is a very good thing in today’s turbulent times.
Nota Gallery
The gallery’s Art Embassy is just a few steps from the historic Checkpoint Charlie and its raw, industrial space goes against the pristine white cube gallery model. Come to think of it, that is pretty common in Berlin! The exhibition is pretty dynamic, showing a wide variety of artworks, including a few kinetic pieces. Though I normally tend to prefer more polished settings, the art here truly worked for me.
Notta Gallery Art Embassy
Galerie Mensing
For those craving more pop and – dare I say it commercial art, look no further than Galerie Mensing. You will find all your favorites here – Mr. Brainwash, Guy Boudro, Romero Britto, Atelier Lieverse, Charles Fazzino, and many others. So, if you are seeking a colorful break from the autumnal Berlin grays, stop in. You will be glad you did.
Atelier Lieverse, Galerie Mensing
And that’s it, folks. At least for this Berlin visit. I know there are many more places to visit here and I will be back. I just might wait for warmer weather months!
Photos of Boros Collection: © NOSHE