KUTNA HORA KOOL

If you read Czech guidebooks and are now expecting me to expound on the intricacies of the “bone church”, I am about to disappoint you. Yes, there is one. Yes, I have seen it. No, I am not going to write about it. I have a much better destination in mind.

GASK. WEIRD NAME. SUPER COOL ART CURATION

Lately, I have been really lucky, visiting cool museums in Norway, Belfast and Madrid. Galerie Stredoceskeho Kraje (GASK for short) in Kutna Hora deserves to be mentioned among them. I was impressed by the clever, interesting art curation and the entire gallery setting.

Approaching the gallery from afar, you’d never guess you’re headed for a contemporary art museum. The building that houses this modern and contemporary art gem is—an old jesuit college. A large one, too, making GASK one of the largest galleries in all of Bohemia, with over 3,000 square meters of exhibition space. With its location right next to the beautifully restored gothic church of Svata Barbora, the last thing you’d expect is a contemporary art temple.

Soon, however, the gallery starts revealing its true focus. As you enter the sculpture park, you are greeted by the giant “Bird of Paradise” by Lukas Rittstein. Part bird part repurposed old vehicle, the sculpture is both fun and intriguing. John Chamberlain’s work might pop into your head instantly. Walk on past the rust-colored flower (“Lilie”) by Martin Kocourek and the odd amoeba-like red sculpture (“Socha OF-1”) by Jan Kovarik and suddenly it’s crystal-clear. This place is very contemporary after all.

So, when later on, the internet informed me that the conceptual partner of GASK Open Air is the Louisiana Museum in Copenhagen (another favorite museum and a past subject of this blog) I nodded. But of course!

ULTIMA CULPA

Enter through the doors framed by two larger-than-life lenticular photographs and walk straight into the intriguing “Alley of the Saints” hallway. Right off-the-bat, GASK shows off its contemporary art creds with a whimsical collection of contemporary sculptures and an intriguingly named “Ultima Culpa” show by Kamila B. Richter. The Czech multimedia artist’s paintings - her response to the rapid technology boom—are inspired by faulty, pixelated old Sony Ericsson digital snapshots of classic masterpieces and modern life. Richter translates these flawed snaps into meticulously executed psychedelic large scale paintings. It shouldn’t, but somehow it works and it’s fascinating.

From here, head upstairs. The upper floors house a mix of temporary exhibitions, from a delightful 1930s-1950s textile design and print show that is somehow incredibly contemporary, to a mesmerizing set of Svatopluk Klimeš’s “burnt” images, made with ash and fire and questioning the temporary nature and the Phoenix-like rebirth of the civilization.

The rest of the space is reserved for the permanent collection. This is where the curators are at their best. Someone had the brilliant idea to think about human emotions, everything from joy to fear and loneliness, and organize the art by the emotion is represents. Sculptures among paintings, conceptual pieces next to more classic renderings, all connected through simple, modern graphical signage and clever quotes from old philosophers and modern rock musicians. There is a lot to see yet the art never feels cramped and overwhelming. And you’re intrigued, engaged, and delighted throughout. Both my friend and I absolutely loved it.

On your way out, make sure to stop at the cool and artsy cafe on the first floor and the superbly curated museum gift shop on the ground floor. They are both great.

GASK is located in Kutna Hora, about an hour’s drive from Prague. If you’re in the mood for a fun day trip, I highly recommend it.