BEAUTIFUL PHOTOGRAPHY HIDING IN AN OLD LAUNDRY ROOM

Whenever I come back to Prague, I make it a point to explore the burgeoning arts and culture scene here. This time was no different. And one of the stops was the intriguing photography show of works by Alžběta Jungrová. I will admit, this show is not new. In fact it opened earlier this spring. But, just seeing glimpses of it in my social feed, I put it on my “must see” list during my most recent visit. And I was not disappointed. In fact, I am hard pressed to recall when I saw such an interesting installation in Prague (and yes, I have been to David Cerny’s Musoleum as well - but that will be another post).

Why, you ask? Well, several things. First, there is a lot of black and white portrait photography. And that is my sweet spot. Something I have always enjoyed. Knowing that alone was reason enough.

Second, it’s the location and the format the author chose. Alžběta installed her photographs quite unconventionally - in a now defunct laundry room of a hospital on Karlovo náměstí. The choice of the place creates a really interesting atmosphere with its somewhat raw architecture (and the entrance is from the Faust house that is subject to mystery and legends known to all Prague citizens).

In addition, she experimented with materials and the presentation. You can find photos printed on metal mesh curtains, large-format plastic plates, projected on an old glass door, placed in a piece of furniture or partly showing the underlying old hospital tile. Those who are not afraid of heights can climb to the elevated platform that’s been purpose-built in the space and admire the views from a different perspective. This is helpful, because the photos are hung at different heights, a number of them well above natural eye level. So, if you’re willing the brave the slightly rickety ladder, do it. You will enjoy the views.

Thirdly, the title itself. “I believe...” What exactly? In today’s polarized world, many could start arguing the matters of faith at this point. But that’s not exactly what we’re talking about here. According to the author, that the leitmotif of the exhibition is "Where reality ends, fiction begins". As others have written, looking at the photos, it's hard to tell which of these worlds it is. They intertwine. As the photographer does not name her photos, it is entirely up to the viewer to process them him/herself, including the emotions they evoke. And those emotions can range from joy to shock to sadness and melancholy. Whatever your mood, you are likely to find something that will speak to you. And if all of that is not enough, and you are looking for something more, why not wake up your inner child and find joy on the little swing set that’s been installed in the space. You will have fun and see the photos from yet another vantage point.

Ready to go? You still have plenty of opportunity. The show runs at the current location at Všeobecna fakultní nemocnice in Praha 2 (VFN, U nemocnice 2, Praha) through October 15.

THE BEST PLACES TO SEE CONTEMPORARY ART IN PRAGUE - PART 3

Prague, a contemporary art destination? Yes, yes, a thousand times yes. The city that most associate with stunning Gothic and Baroque architecture, Smetana and Dvorak’s music and beautiful women, is rapidly becoming an amazing destination for contemporary art lovers. I am lucky to be able to spend time in Prague every year and each time I visit, the city has added more galleries and venues. I love it. It makes my heart happy.

So, shall we look at some of galleries?

KVALITAR

Though technically not “new” (the architects-turned-founders opened the gallery in 2012) this gallery is, simply said, awesome. Representing up-and-coming Czech artists along with established names both local and international, the gallery was set up as a platform for art, design and architecture. Whether you like abstract art or latest sculpture, you’re sure to find it here. And they pay it forward, too, with educational programs for future collectors. I loved everything about this place. Located just off the busy Wenceslas Square, Kvalitar is a must on your Prague contemporary art tour.

SMETANAQ

Part of a larger art-focused concept that includes a design store showcasing the works of young Czech designers, an always-busy cafe that will satisfy your sweet-tooth cravings, SmetanaQ also includes a large contemporary art gallery upstairs. The sprawling space allows the gallery to showcase large scale artwork without making it feel crowded. And, if the art inside is not enough for you, take a peek out of the window. You will be hard pressed to find a more spectacular view of the Prague Castle.

KUNSTHALLE PRAHA

This newcomer opened its doors in February of 2022 and now provides a nice counterpoint to the history and antiques that await visitors at the Prague Castle just up the hill. Built in a converted electric plant, the Kunsthalle fittingly opened with an inaugural show focused on kinetic art on the main two floors and supplemented it with an exhibition of a range of contemporary art from a private collection. And, if you are feeling overwhelmed by the busy streets outside, take a minute and relax in the meditation room hidden in the tower on the top floor.

TRAFO GALLERY

This one is definitely off the beaten path, but that does not make it any less worthy of a visit. Originally conceived as “Trafacka” in 2006, the gallery is located in the former slaughterhouse at the Holesovice market complex. Born out of a collaboration between Czech contemporary artists and leading curators, the gallery now produces six shows per year, some tackling the issues of today’s world.

KAMPUS HYBERNSKA

Kampus Hybernska, or Hyb4, is another multi-purpose space. Hiding in plain sight in one of the non-descript streets leading to the Masarykovo train station, just a couple of minutes from the popular Obecni Dum, the campus comprises an outdoor cafe, an indoor reading room/cafe and, if you diligently search (or ask in the cafe, as we did), a surprisingly nice and large gallery reminiscent of the spaces in the much larger and popular Veletrzni Palac (see my post about that one, here). When we visited, the gallery was showing the works of Barbara Valaskova whose world full of blue color reminded me of one of my favorites, Yves Klein.

There you have it. A small sampling of the rich contemporary art scene that you can explore in Prague. But there is so much more. More galleries, more outdoors sculpture parks, terrific new art festivals and annual art celebrations. And, if you stick with me, I will tell you more about it in the next installment. For now, I leave you with another piece from the “Blau” show at Hybernska.

THE BEST PLACES TO SEE CONTEMPORARY ART IN PRAGUE PART 2

Erika Bornova sculpture

When I started writing about contemporary art in Prague, I quickly realized that I had more material than would fit into a single blog. So, contemporary art lovers, here is Part 2 of this mini series. Prague has so much to offer and I hope you can enjoy it as much as I did.

MUZEUM KAMPA

I have written about the Kampa museum before. It came into being in 2003 through the efforts of a Frantisek Kupka collector Meda Mládek. Today, the museum houses the Meda and Jan Mládek private art collection on the upper floors. The lower floors of the Sovovy Mlyny location on the Vltava river regularly host various modern and contemporary art exhibitions, including the works of a beloved Czech illustrator Kamil Lhotak (who just happened to live in the same building where I now own a place), a sublime sculptor and painter Karel Malich, Toyen (yes, the artist I profiled a few weeks ago), Czech street artist Pasta Oner, Alfons Mucha, Helmut Newton, Pablo Picasso, Eduard Munch, Oskar Kokoschka, Andy Warhol and many others. Even the outside of the museum is built to catch your eye: surrounded by David Cerny’s oversized babies on the Kampa Island, a giant chair right in the river and a darling lineup of yellow penguins walking right up to the museum cafe. You will know when you have arrived. Currently, the museum is showing the work of Jiri Salomoun who is known to Czech kids and adults alike from his Maxipes Fik children story illustrations.

KASARNA KARLIN - KARLIN STUDIOS GALLERY

Kasarna Karlin (the former army barracks) opened in 2017 with the aim of creating a cultural crossroads for people of different ages and walks of life. This is a multifunctional space (a coffee shop, a movie theater, a sand pit, a campfire pit, a bar, a club) rather than strictly an art gallery, though there is an art gallery on the premises as well. In the summer, it is a great place to grab a drink and explore the temporary art installation in the barracks large quadrangle. The onsite gallery, Karlin Studios, showcases the works of artists from the onsite artist studios in an effort to promote up and coming artists.

LEICA GALLERY PRAGUE

My friends know that although I love contemporary art of all kinds, I have a soft spot for photography. So, it will be no surprise to anyone that this list will also include a few galleries that focus on this medium. And Leica is an obvious choice here. The current show “Tramps” highlights the explorations of wanderlust by Czech photographer Libor Fojtik and, in the cafe, you can admire the floral and botanical photography work of Anne Mason-Hoerter that explores the possibilities of data layers, image collages and configurations. I really enjoyed perusing her work as well.

GALERIE FOTOGRAFIC

Another hidden gem, Galerie Fotografic is worth leaving the well worn tourist trail and exploring the side streets near Betlemska kaple. The tiny room in Stribrna street with a cute backyard has been around for many years. It prides itself on showing interesting work from European photographers, focusing on contemporary photography and multimedia explorations that overlap with other artistic fields. The gallery encourages artists to present their works in unexpected installations and regularly holds open calls inviting all innovative projects in the fields of photography, video art, interactive media, as well as painting or drawing. The gallery is also a cultural space for the neighhborhood, hosting discussions and with artists, screening films and participating in community projects such as Betlemska kulturni noc, Fotograf Festival, Noc literatury or Prague Quadrennial.

PRAGUE MUNICIPAL GALLERY

Technically, Prague Municipal Gallery can show art of all kinds, so it’s always good to check out what’s on at the time you plan your visit. Currently, one of the locations is showing the work of another contemporary Czech illustrator, Erika Bornova and so it deserves a spot on this list. Hailing from a famed artist family (her father is none other than Adolf Born, a multitalented Czech painter, illustrator, caricaturist and costume designer) Erika’s work ranges from sculpture to paintings and draws inspiration from the lives of historical figures and the mysteries of flora and fauna. Interestingly, she also showcases a series of self-portraits painted during a period when the artist partially lost her sight. As the curator of the current show mentions, Bornová’s work shows how subtle the line is between “normality” and madness, between genius and infatuation, as well as between devoted love and destructive obsession - all themes quite fitting for the world we live in today.

GALERIE ZDENEK SKLENAR

I first discovered this tiny gallery in its previous location tucked away on a side street in the Old Town. The space has since moved but Zdenek Sklenar still shows some of the best works of well known Czech contemporary artists, and it’s definitely worth a stop for any serious art lover.

THE BEST PLACES TO SEE CONTEMPORARY ART IN PRAGUE PART 1

Prague. A city that brings to mind golden spires glinting in the setting sun, winding cobblestoned streets and the spectacular and imposing presence of the St. Vitus Cathedral looking over the city from its hilly perch. They are all here and they are just as magical as you imagined. But, the city is also packed with great contemporary art and it would be a shame not to see any while you are visiting. Let me show you where to go.

VELETRZNI PALAC

Designed by Czech architects Josef Fuchs and Oldřich Tyl and built in the 1920s, it was one of the largest functionalist buildings in the world at the time and was used to house major international trade fairs. The building almost met an untimely end in 1974 when it was severely damaged by a fire that took almost a week to extinguish. Fortunately, it was acquired by The Prague National Gallery that helped restore the building to its former glory and turned it into the permanent home of its modern and contemporary art collection with works ranging from the likes of Alfons Mucha, Claude Monet, Paul Cézanne and Paul Gauguin to Auguste Rodin, Pablo Picasso or Vincent Van Gogh. The gallery regularly shows great contemporary art exhibitions and art lovers have been able to see the works of artists as diverse as Annie Leibovitz, Gerhard Richter or Katharina Grosse. The current show is profiling the work of the surrealist artist Viktor Pivovarov. And architecture lovers will appreciate the stunning white functionalist interiors - those alone are worth a visit.

Veletrzni palac Prague

Veletrzni palac Prague - Viktor Pivovarov exhibition

Veletrzni palac Prague - Viktor Pivovarov exhibition

Veletrzni palac Prague - Viktor Pivovarov exhibition

DOX CENTRE FOR CONTEMPORARY ARTS

DOX Centre for Contemporary Arts - Gulliver bllimp

Another simple and clean architectural gem born from a former factory conversion, the centre (named after a Greek word that means a point of view, or a persuasion) is a multifunctional space that focuses on contemporary art, architecture and design. Today, the building is instantly recognizable thanks to the 2016 addition of “Gulliver”, a blimp designed by architect Martin Rajniš. Gulliver serves as a lecture space and a lookout point for visitors. The centre puts on a number of rotating exhibitions every year, and has shown the works of Andy Warhol, Robert Mapplethorpe, Karel Nepraš, Czech comics, art brut and many others. The art at DOX always tells a story with a clear point of view - as you would expect given its name.

GALERIE PRAGOVKA

Those with an interest in conceptual art should head out to the emerging Pragovka Art District. The raw and industrial Pragovka Gallery (housed in a former and still to be renovated former truck factory) has an impressive and large space that focuses on emerging artists and artists-in-residence. For those who are familiar with New York, this is as close to Bushwick as you will get here in Prague. And it definitely has that cool, edgy vibe, complete with a hipster cafe on the premises.

Galerie Pragovka

Galerie Pragovka

Galerie Pragovka

Galerie Pragovka

GALERIE MESTSKA KNIHOVNA

A stone’s throw from the Old Town Square and hidden on the top floor of the neoclassicist building of Mestska Knihovna (The Municipal Library) the space itself is beautiful with simple clean interiors and large skylights. If you can, take the stairs to see the streamlined but striking Art Deco glasswork on the windows.

The art space is extensive and is part of the Prague Municipal Gallery complex. It presents short-term shows that focus on a range of contemporary and modern artists, both Czech and international. Currently, the gallery is showing the works of Jan Jedlička, a painter and photographer who has been creating works inspired by his Czech, Italian and Swiss surroundings. A good friend pointed me in this direction and I loved the paintings made from pigments collected by the artist on location and translated into abstract “portraits” of each place.

Intrigued? I am glad! Because there is more. Check back in for Part 2, coming soon.