What impressed me most was how complete it felt. The show moves through everything. The early wire pieces, the famous circus, the moment in the early thirties when he invented the mobile and a whole new kind of sculpture came into being, the big still stabiles, the huge late public works. There is jewelry and there are paintings too. It is the whole arc of a life, laid out in order, and you understand him better for seeing it all in one room after another.
We spent a few hours and did not rush.
My favourites were the mobiles, of course, the way they turn so slowly you are not sure they are moving until they already have. But what I really loved was the wire sculptures. The faces especially. Each one gives you two things at once, the actual wire and its shadow thrown on the wall behind it. The line and its reflection. The thing and its echo. I was really drawn to them.
Calder spent much of his later life in France and always called it his second home. Standing inside Gehry's glass sails, watching his shapes turn in the light, that made complete sense to me.
If you are in Paris before 16 August, give it an afternoon. Not an hour. An afternoon.