THE CITY OF LIGHT AND ITS CONTEMPORARY ART SCENE
A must-read for the contemporary art enthusiast visiting Paris. Top galleries to put on your Parisian itinerary.
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EXPLORING ROME AND ITS CONTEMPORARY ART
The Eternal City. Yes. Rome is known for its history, its spectacular monuments, and enduring artworks by art geniuses of the past. Raphael, Caravaggio, Bernini, Borromini, and yes, the unforgettable Michelangelo whose work on Pope Julius II’s commission gave us the spectacular Sistine Chapel. If you love art history, Rome is the destination of your dreams.
For the contemporary art lovers among us, all it takes is a tiny extra bit of preparation. But you too can fall in love with this beautiful place. So, let’s explore together, shall we?
LA GALLERIA NAZIONALE D’ARTE MODERNA E CONTEMPORANEA
I dare you not to fall in love with this gallery. An unassuming neoclassical building just a few steps away from the fab Villa Borghese park, the gallery had my heart from the moment I stepped in. Generously sized rooms that let the art breathe, large skylights that bring in lots of natural light, and a small courtyard with greenery to blend the indoors and outdoors in a way that just works. But that was only the beginning.
What I really loved is the way the art is curated here. A few well chosen antique pieces mixed in with modern and contemporary art, all beautifully and seamlessly blended together. Art placed in ways that show clarity of a curator’s purpose, with each piece standing out individually and ready for your attention, but also working together with others as part of the bigger idea of the entire room. Careful placement, playing with the location of windows, doorways and stairs to create varied vistas that draw your eye in. It is so well done and it is sure to bring a smile to your face.
Finally, don’t forget the special exhibitions. They are done with humor, creativity and imagination. Make this the one gallery that is a “must” on your list.
MAXXI
If your heart pines after conceptual art, this is the place for you. MAXXI (short for The National Museum of XXI Century Arts) has set an ambitious (and a little ambiguous) goal of becoming the first Italian national institution devoted to contemporary creativity. This is reflected in the programming and special projects and the workshops that the museum wants to focus on going forward.
For me, the highlight of the visit was the building itself. Designed by Zaha Hadid, the concrete structure features her signature bold forms and undulating shapes outside and twisting staircases on the inside. Connecting multiple structures into one cohesive self, MAXXI stands out (while also blending in) in the more typical Flaminio neighborhood that surrounds it.
MACRO
MACRO stands for Museum of Contemporary Art Rome, so you know you are in the right place. Built in a former Peroni brewery and warehouse, it was inaugurated in 1999 as the Municipal Gallery of Modern and Contemporary Art of Rome. It was subsequently redesigned to better suit the exhibition and performance space needs and reopened to the public in 2010. Make sure you check out the events and exhibitions that are on and don’t forget that the museum only opens in the afternoons.
MUCCIACACCIA GALLERY
This was a random find! I passed by the gallery on my way home one evening and liked this small space enough to come back the next day. Three connected rooms provide the perfect white backdrop for the very colorful art by Jim Lambie that was on display during my visit. The gallery is right in the center of Rome so it is an easy addition to your itinerary.
GALLERIA LORCAN O’NEILL
Another good stop on your contemporary art tour is Lorcan O’Neill. The Irish-born gallery has been bringing avant-garde and contemporary artists such as Gary Hume, Anselm Kiefer, Tracey Emin and others to the eternal city and is worth a stop as well.
SEE ART, STAY WITH ART
My focus here is mostly on finding contemporary art while you travel. But every now and then I will share hotels, restaurants or design shops that make the perfect destination for my fellow minimalist design and contemporary art lovers. This time, it is these two hotels:
Crossing Condotti
Hidden on a side street that’s but a stone’s throw from the Spanish Steps and the glam of Via Condotti, this tiny gem of a hotel makes you happy from the moment you step through its dark green doors. Each of its handful of rooms showcases carefully picked iconic design furniture and a mix of classic and contemporary art from artists such as Beatrice Spadea, Benedetta Mori Ubaldini, or Sergio Vanni. Design and art come together to greet you as you enter and to create an amazing backdrop for your entire stay. To top it off, the manager is great. A kind architecture buff, helpful and ready to make your stay a wonderful one.
Dei Barbieri hotel
Do you want to stay in a palazzo that’s both grand and also utterly modern? Dei Barbieri fits the bill perfectly. Tucked away on a side street, the hotel is close to one of the gems of the millenia-old architecture: The Pantheon. For the aperitivo-loving crowd, it’s also not that far from Campo de’Fiori. The building is an impressive renovation of a 17th-century building, mixing and beautifully preserved dramatic period architecture with cutting-edge contemporary design.
With so much to see, a true Roman holiday always makes me smile. Arrivederci Roma. Baci.
The sculpture of Marie Therese in Prague
THE BEST PLACES TO SEE CONTEMPORARY ART IN PRAGUE PART 1
Prague. A city that brings to mind golden spires glinting in the setting sun, winding cobblestoned streets and the spectacular and imposing presence of the St. Vitus Cathedral looking over the city from its hilly perch. They are all here and they are just as magical as you imagined. But, the city is also packed with great contemporary art and it would be a shame not to see any while you are visiting. Let me show you where to go.
VELETRZNI PALAC
Designed by Czech architects Josef Fuchs and Oldřich Tyl and built in the 1920s, it was one of the largest functionalist buildings in the world at the time and was used to house major international trade fairs. The building almost met an untimely end in 1974 when it was severely damaged by a fire that took almost a week to extinguish. Fortunately, it was acquired by The Prague National Gallery that helped restore the building to its former glory and turned it into the permanent home of its modern and contemporary art collection with works ranging from the likes of Alfons Mucha, Claude Monet, Paul Cézanne and Paul Gauguin to Auguste Rodin, Pablo Picasso or Vincent Van Gogh. The gallery regularly shows great contemporary art exhibitions and art lovers have been able to see the works of artists as diverse as Annie Leibovitz, Gerhard Richter or Katharina Grosse. The current show is profiling the work of the surrealist artist Viktor Pivovarov. And architecture lovers will appreciate the stunning white functionalist interiors - those alone are worth a visit.
DOX CENTRE FOR CONTEMPORARY ARTS
DOX Centre for Contemporary Arts - Gulliver bllimp
Another simple and clean architectural gem born from a former factory conversion, the centre (named after a Greek word that means a point of view, or a persuasion) is a multifunctional space that focuses on contemporary art, architecture and design. Today, the building is instantly recognizable thanks to the 2016 addition of “Gulliver”, a blimp designed by architect Martin Rajniš. Gulliver serves as a lecture space and a lookout point for visitors. The centre puts on a number of rotating exhibitions every year, and has shown the works of Andy Warhol, Robert Mapplethorpe, Karel Nepraš, Czech comics, art brut and many others. The art at DOX always tells a story with a clear point of view - as you would expect given its name.
GALERIE PRAGOVKA
Those with an interest in conceptual art should head out to the emerging Pragovka Art District. The raw and industrial Pragovka Gallery (housed in a former and still to be renovated former truck factory) has an impressive and large space that focuses on emerging artists and artists-in-residence. For those who are familiar with New York, this is as close to Bushwick as you will get here in Prague. And it definitely has that cool, edgy vibe, complete with a hipster cafe on the premises.
GALERIE MESTSKA KNIHOVNA
A stone’s throw from the Old Town Square and hidden on the top floor of the neoclassicist building of Mestska Knihovna (The Municipal Library) the space itself is beautiful with simple clean interiors and large skylights. If you can, take the stairs to see the streamlined but striking Art Deco glasswork on the windows.
The art space is extensive and is part of the Prague Municipal Gallery complex. It presents short-term shows that focus on a range of contemporary and modern artists, both Czech and international. Currently, the gallery is showing the works of Jan Jedlička, a painter and photographer who has been creating works inspired by his Czech, Italian and Swiss surroundings. A good friend pointed me in this direction and I loved the paintings made from pigments collected by the artist on location and translated into abstract “portraits” of each place.
Intrigued? I am glad! Because there is more. Check back in for Part 2, coming soon.
GLIMPSES OF MAINE, CUTENESS AND FLOWERS
Cig Harvey: Elizabeth
While the world is still waiting to reopen (the signs of life and reopening are growing stronger and stronger, daring me to dream about far flung destinations again), I am still finding inspiration in the striking images of my favorite photographers. So for today, let’s explore Maine through the eyes of the British photographer Cig Harvey.
THE AIPAD SHOW: DISCOVERING THE WORLD OF CIG HARVEY
I first came across Cig’s work a few years ago when her playful home and family scenes caught my eye at the Aipad show in NYC. It was the bold color, the perfect-yet-imperfect composition and the hint of a mischief that made Cig’s work so appealing. It’s warm and it’s human and I was hooked. So I started paying attention.
GOING DEEPER: THE PLAYFUL MAINE
Cig’s story itself is interesting. How does a photographer South West England become one of the up and coming artists in Maine? Maine was the first place Cig moved to when she arrived in the US in 1999. The open spaces were exactly what was needed to inspire her creative thinking process. And although Cig got her MFA from Rockport College and spent nearly 10 years as an assistant professor at the Art Institute in Boston, she met her husband in Maine and they eventually bought an old farmhouse there that’s been her base for years now.
When we chatted at her art opening recently, she was quick to point out that with Maine’s long winters, it takes some creativity to come up with the engaging pictures that I admire so much. It may take exploring snowy scenery and working with random objects such as a disco ball to cast that magic spell on a simple wooden wall. Or, it may take putting together her photographer skills and the playful ideas of her daughter to recreate the feeling of childhood wonder. It succeeds brilliantly.
DEEPER STILL: THE RICHNESS OF COLOR, THE DEPTH OF BEAUTY
What I appreciate about Harvey’s work is also its breadth. Where one moment you can be playing along, dreaming of running into the snow or building an igloo, blink and you are suddenly wading through a dark moody lake. Blink again and you’re in a forest surrounded by all its luscious greenery. There may even be a butterfly landing next to you in this magical landscape. The rich, deeply saturated colors do their part to truly immerse you in the experience.
BLUE VIOLET: EAT FLOWERS
Another thing worth mentioning? Cig Harvey is not only a talented photographer, she is also a book author. Her books (yes, she has four now!) are sensorial gems full of poetry and warmth where the words and the perfect match for the images they accompany. Start with her first one, “You look at me like an emergency” that takes you on the quest for personal identity and finding your place in the world, then move on to “Gardening at Night” and its exploration of home, family, nature, and time, and then the third one, “You an Orchestra, You a Bomb” that explores her relationship with life itself paying attention to and appreciating the fragile present.
The just published fourth book, “Blue Violet” is an explosion of color and sensorial delight. Flip through and you’ll learn about Cig’s favorite color (pink), the secret to forcing blossoms in the middle of the winter (changing the water daily and loudly expressing a desperate desire for spring might play a role) and how to make delicious meals that, you guessed it, involve eating flowers. All wrapped among some of her most gorgeous imagery to-date. And I am very lucky to own one, signed by Cig herself.
Cig Harvey is represented by the Robert Mann Gallery in New York and by the Jackson Fine Art gallery in Atlanta. Her work is in permanent collections of the Museum of Fine Arts, Houston, Texas; the International Museum of Photography and Film at the George Eastman House, Rochester, New York; the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston; and the Farnsworth Art Museum, Rockland, Maine.
Cig Harvey: Emerald Coat with Dahlia Petal
THE IMAGINATIVE LANDSCAPES OF FRENCH PHOTOGRAPHY
Corinne Mercadier: Angels
Sometimes you want to step out of your daily reality and explore a different world. For me, the answer lies in the imaginative landscapes of French photography. I have admired it ever since I brought one into my home. Let me introduce you to one of my favorites.
THE WORLD THROUGH THE EYES OF CORINNE MERCADIER
I first came across Corinne Mercadier’s work a few years back when I discovered the dreamy scenes of her 2009-2015 Solo Series. The darkened images, staged and shot on the Southwest Mediterranean beaches of Corinne’s childhood evoke memories and are full of playful props. The almost monochromatic landscapes reminiscent of lunar surfaces can feel solitary, but they still pull you in. Step in and see if you, too, can push that ball, twirl that stick, make magic. It’s only appropriate in a world where photographs carry mysterious names such as “Fata Morgana” and “Toute Pensée”. I fell in love with “Magnetik” and it still brings me joy every time I look at it in my home.
A few years later, I had a chance to revisit Corinne’s work. (Well, I never really left it, I kept returning to her website to see what she’s been up to.) She’s added more color while keeping the mystery and intrigue. The more recent (2015-2017) series aptly named “Le ciel commence ici” (“The sky begins here”) is busier, more theatrical and full of energy. Your eye can’t help but notice all the action: A sphere flying through the space, geometric objects that cast double shadows, nondescript people moving through the space. At times, it’s hard to see what’s suspended in the air and what’s moving at full speed. I like it just as much, if not more, than her previous work. I have a feeling I will be adding to my collection. The only hard choice is figuring out which piece I like the best.
In recent years, Corinne’s moved back to a more monochromatic theme with her “Espace second” work that walks you through emptied mansions, down darkened hallways and past imposing doorways that invite you to take a peek what lies behind. And, as is now to be expected from Corinne’s work, throughout it all, your companion and guide remains anonymous, leaving you to imagine what story they would tell if only they could speak.
Corinne Mercadier started her photography career with a Polaroid SX70, which she used until 2008 before moving to digital photography. Her work continues to captivate audiences and she’s won awards for her celestially inspired work, including the Prix Altadis in 2001 and a finalist position at the Prix de l’Académie des Beaux-Arts Marc Ladreit de Lacharrière. Her photographs are in the collections of the Maison Européenne de la Photographie, Paris; FNAC, Paris; the Bibliothèque Nationale, Paris; and the Polaroid Corporation Collection. You can also find her work at the Galerie Les Filles du Calvaire in Paris, and at the Alan Klotz gallery in New York. You can also explore it directly on her website. I love Corinne’s work and I hope that you will, too.
All photos in this post are by Corinne Mercadier.
