EXPLORING ROME AND ITS CONTEMPORARY ART

The Eternal City. Yes. Rome is known for its history, its spectacular monuments, and enduring artworks by art geniuses of the past. Raphael, Caravaggio, Bernini, Borromini, and yes, the unforgettable Michelangelo whose work on Pope Julius II’s commission gave us the spectacular Sistine Chapel. If you love art history, Rome is the destination of your dreams.

For the contemporary art lovers among us, all it takes is a tiny extra bit of preparation. But you too can fall in love with this beautiful place. So, let’s explore together, shall we?

LA GALLERIA NAZIONALE D’ARTE MODERNA E CONTEMPORANEA

I dare you not to fall in love with this gallery. An unassuming neoclassical building just a few steps away from the fab Villa Borghese park, the gallery had my heart from the moment I stepped in. Generously sized rooms that let the art breathe, large skylights that bring in lots of natural light, and a small courtyard with greenery to blend the indoors and outdoors in a way that just works. But that was only the beginning.

What I really loved is the way the art is curated here. A few well chosen antique pieces mixed in with modern and contemporary art, all beautifully and seamlessly blended together. Art placed in ways that show clarity of a curator’s purpose, with each piece standing out individually and ready for your attention, but also working together with others as part of the bigger idea of the entire room. Careful placement, playing with the location of windows, doorways and stairs to create varied vistas that draw your eye in. It is so well done and it is sure to bring a smile to your face.

Finally, don’t forget the special exhibitions. They are done with humor, creativity and imagination. Make this the one gallery that is a “must” on your list.

MAXXI

If your heart pines after conceptual art, this is the place for you. MAXXI (short for The National Museum of XXI Century Arts) has set an ambitious (and a little ambiguous) goal of becoming the first Italian national institution devoted to contemporary creativity. This is reflected in the programming and special projects and the workshops that the museum wants to focus on going forward.

For me, the highlight of the visit was the building itself. Designed by Zaha Hadid, the concrete structure features her signature bold forms and undulating shapes outside and twisting staircases on the inside. Connecting multiple structures into one cohesive self, MAXXI stands out (while also blending in) in the more typical Flaminio neighborhood that surrounds it.

MACRO

MACRO stands for Museum of Contemporary Art Rome, so you know you are in the right place. Built in a former Peroni brewery and warehouse, it was inaugurated in 1999 as the Municipal Gallery of Modern and Contemporary Art of Rome. It was subsequently redesigned to better suit the exhibition and performance space needs and reopened to the public in 2010. Make sure you check out the events and exhibitions that are on and don’t forget that the museum only opens in the afternoons.

MUCCIACACCIA GALLERY

This was a random find! I passed by the gallery on my way home one evening and liked this small space enough to come back the next day. Three connected rooms provide the perfect white backdrop for the very colorful art by Jim Lambie that was on display during my visit. The gallery is right in the center of Rome so it is an easy addition to your itinerary.

GALLERIA LORCAN O’NEILL

Another good stop on your contemporary art tour is Lorcan O’Neill. The Irish-born gallery has been bringing avant-garde and contemporary artists such as Gary Hume, Anselm Kiefer, Tracey Emin and others to the eternal city and is worth a stop as well.

SEE ART, STAY WITH ART

My focus here is mostly on finding contemporary art while you travel. But every now and then I will share hotels, restaurants or design shops that make the perfect destination for my fellow minimalist design and contemporary art lovers. This time, it is these two hotels:

Crossing Condotti

Hidden on a side street that’s but a stone’s throw from the Spanish Steps and the glam of Via Condotti, this tiny gem of a hotel makes you happy from the moment you step through its dark green doors. Each of its handful of rooms showcases carefully picked iconic design furniture and a mix of classic and contemporary art from artists such as Beatrice Spadea, Benedetta Mori Ubaldini, or Sergio Vanni. Design and art come together to greet you as you enter and to create an amazing backdrop for your entire stay. To top it off, the manager is great. A kind architecture buff, helpful and ready to make your stay a wonderful one.

Dei Barbieri hotel
Do you want to stay in a palazzo that’s both grand and also utterly modern? Dei Barbieri fits the bill perfectly. Tucked away on a side street, the hotel is close to one of the gems of the millenia-old architecture: The Pantheon. For the aperitivo-loving crowd, it’s also not that far from Campo de’Fiori. The building is an impressive renovation of a 17th-century building, mixing and beautifully preserved dramatic period architecture with cutting-edge contemporary design.

With so much to see, a true Roman holiday always makes me smile. Arrivederci Roma. Baci.

THE BEST PLACES TO SEE CONTEMPORARY ART IN PRAGUE PART 1

Prague. A city that brings to mind golden spires glinting in the setting sun, winding cobblestoned streets and the spectacular and imposing presence of the St. Vitus Cathedral looking over the city from its hilly perch. They are all here and they are just as magical as you imagined. But, the city is also packed with great contemporary art and it would be a shame not to see any while you are visiting. Let me show you where to go.

VELETRZNI PALAC

Designed by Czech architects Josef Fuchs and Oldřich Tyl and built in the 1920s, it was one of the largest functionalist buildings in the world at the time and was used to house major international trade fairs. The building almost met an untimely end in 1974 when it was severely damaged by a fire that took almost a week to extinguish. Fortunately, it was acquired by The Prague National Gallery that helped restore the building to its former glory and turned it into the permanent home of its modern and contemporary art collection with works ranging from the likes of Alfons Mucha, Claude Monet, Paul Cézanne and Paul Gauguin to Auguste Rodin, Pablo Picasso or Vincent Van Gogh. The gallery regularly shows great contemporary art exhibitions and art lovers have been able to see the works of artists as diverse as Annie Leibovitz, Gerhard Richter or Katharina Grosse. The current show is profiling the work of the surrealist artist Viktor Pivovarov. And architecture lovers will appreciate the stunning white functionalist interiors - those alone are worth a visit.

Veletrzni palac Prague

Veletrzni palac Prague - Viktor Pivovarov exhibition

Veletrzni palac Prague - Viktor Pivovarov exhibition

Veletrzni palac Prague - Viktor Pivovarov exhibition

DOX CENTRE FOR CONTEMPORARY ARTS

DOX Centre for Contemporary Arts - Gulliver bllimp

Another simple and clean architectural gem born from a former factory conversion, the centre (named after a Greek word that means a point of view, or a persuasion) is a multifunctional space that focuses on contemporary art, architecture and design. Today, the building is instantly recognizable thanks to the 2016 addition of “Gulliver”, a blimp designed by architect Martin Rajniš. Gulliver serves as a lecture space and a lookout point for visitors. The centre puts on a number of rotating exhibitions every year, and has shown the works of Andy Warhol, Robert Mapplethorpe, Karel Nepraš, Czech comics, art brut and many others. The art at DOX always tells a story with a clear point of view - as you would expect given its name.

GALERIE PRAGOVKA

Those with an interest in conceptual art should head out to the emerging Pragovka Art District. The raw and industrial Pragovka Gallery (housed in a former and still to be renovated former truck factory) has an impressive and large space that focuses on emerging artists and artists-in-residence. For those who are familiar with New York, this is as close to Bushwick as you will get here in Prague. And it definitely has that cool, edgy vibe, complete with a hipster cafe on the premises.

Galerie Pragovka

Galerie Pragovka

Galerie Pragovka

Galerie Pragovka

GALERIE MESTSKA KNIHOVNA

A stone’s throw from the Old Town Square and hidden on the top floor of the neoclassicist building of Mestska Knihovna (The Municipal Library) the space itself is beautiful with simple clean interiors and large skylights. If you can, take the stairs to see the streamlined but striking Art Deco glasswork on the windows.

The art space is extensive and is part of the Prague Municipal Gallery complex. It presents short-term shows that focus on a range of contemporary and modern artists, both Czech and international. Currently, the gallery is showing the works of Jan Jedlička, a painter and photographer who has been creating works inspired by his Czech, Italian and Swiss surroundings. A good friend pointed me in this direction and I loved the paintings made from pigments collected by the artist on location and translated into abstract “portraits” of each place.

Intrigued? I am glad! Because there is more. Check back in for Part 2, coming soon.