CONTEMPORARY ART IN PARIS IN AUGUST? MAIS OUI!

Paris in August. Usually pretty hot and free of Parisians who use the peak summer month to take their annual “congé” or “vacances” and escape the hordes of tourists that descend upon their city. But, if you are visiting and happen to love contemporary art, do not despair. Yes, many smaller contemporary galleries may be closed, but there is plenty of interesting art to see.

Let’s start in Le Marais. It has always been one of my favorite “arrondissements” in Paris. Meandering streets, lots of cute cafes, tiny boutiques offering wares that you are unlikely to find anywhere else and, for those who are after the iconic experiences, the beautiful Place des Vosges and the nearby garden of L’Hotel de Sully. Combine it with a stay at Hôtel National Des Arts Et Métiers, Le Pavillon de la Reine or Cour des Vosges and you can have a very pampered stay in the middle of it all.
It also happens to be the home for a number of museums that stay open. This summer, they offer a lot of great shows to see. A few that a contemporary art lover might enjoy include:

Arthur Elgort photograph of Christy Turlington

FONDATION AZZEDINE ALAIA.  Tucked in a small street a few minutes’ walk from The Louvre, the foundation linked to the iconic fashion designer will not disappoint. Located in a former glassworks factory, the building itself is beautiful, with well preserved glass and wrought iron detailing, a well stocked book store where fashion lovers will find just about any photography book they may be looking for and a lovely courtyard cafe with sleek Bertoia-designed chairs. Inside, the foundation has a habit of showing outstanding fashion photography exhibitions paired with Alaia’s stunning designs. A couple of years ago, we could admire Peter Lindbergh’s work, and this summer it’s the works of Arthur Elgort. Stop by, you will not regret it.

MUSEE PICASSO. The Spanish artist who made France his home for a number of years is well known and you have probably been to his museums in Barcelona or Cap d’Antibes. This should be another stop in your Le Marais itinerary. Especially this summer, as the museum asked the British fashion designer Paul Smith to curate a show commemorating the 50th anniversary of Picasso’s passing. Smith has done a brilliant job, perfectly matching the design of the show to the different periods of the artist’s creations and styles. Each room is a delightful (and colorful, true to Smith’s own style) surprise. The show is thought through down to every cute little detail, be it a whimsical drawing on a window or staircase, or a beautiful view of Parisian rooftops that complement the show.

ATELIER BRÂNCUȘI

Technically part of Centre Pompidou right on the edge of Le Marais, this small (and free!) exhibition place designed by Renzo Piano beautifully and accurately reconstructs the studios of the Romanian sculptor Constantin Brâncuși whose work I have long admired. Bright and airy, the space allows you to revisit some of Brancusi’s iconic works in their original setting. If you happen to be in the area, it’s worth a stop. Even if you only stay for a few minutes, you will be transported.

If all these gems in Le Marais are not enough, and you’re ready to explore some more, you can head towards the Louvre and Jardin de Tuileries. Do not worry, I am not suggesting you join the throngs of people lining up in front of I.M. Pei’s pyramid to enter the most iconic of Parisian museums. That is only for those who like to torture themselves this time of the year. Keep walking right past and towards the Jeu De Paume museum. It’s a much more contemporary and pleasant experience.

Frank Horvat: Givenchy Hat

JEU DE PAUME. This museum, located near Place de la Concorde, puts on interesting photography shows. This summer, they are showing two: Frank Horvat (of the Magnum fame initially, followed by an important career in fashion photography), and Dutch Johan van der Keuken’s work focused on different visual elements and how they play in photography. The Horvat show, especially, is interesting, picking up not only well known photographs from his fashion career but also showing his earlier documentary work from around the world and the Parisian nightlife. And, if all that art has got you tired, make like a Parisian and relax in one of the green metal chairs sprinkled throughout the Tuileries gardens. It is lovely.

Alors, bonne journée et bon voyage!

BEAUTIFUL PHOTOGRAPHY HIDING IN AN OLD LAUNDRY ROOM

Whenever I come back to Prague, I make it a point to explore the burgeoning arts and culture scene here. This time was no different. And one of the stops was the intriguing photography show of works by Alžběta Jungrová. I will admit, this show is not new. In fact it opened earlier this spring. But, just seeing glimpses of it in my social feed, I put it on my “must see” list during my most recent visit. And I was not disappointed. In fact, I am hard pressed to recall when I saw such an interesting installation in Prague (and yes, I have been to David Cerny’s Musoleum as well - but that will be another post).

Why, you ask? Well, several things. First, there is a lot of black and white portrait photography. And that is my sweet spot. Something I have always enjoyed. Knowing that alone was reason enough.

Second, it’s the location and the format the author chose. Alžběta installed her photographs quite unconventionally - in a now defunct laundry room of a hospital on Karlovo náměstí. The choice of the place creates a really interesting atmosphere with its somewhat raw architecture (and the entrance is from the Faust house that is subject to mystery and legends known to all Prague citizens).

In addition, she experimented with materials and the presentation. You can find photos printed on metal mesh curtains, large-format plastic plates, projected on an old glass door, placed in a piece of furniture or partly showing the underlying old hospital tile. Those who are not afraid of heights can climb to the elevated platform that’s been purpose-built in the space and admire the views from a different perspective. This is helpful, because the photos are hung at different heights, a number of them well above natural eye level. So, if you’re willing the brave the slightly rickety ladder, do it. You will enjoy the views.

Thirdly, the title itself. “I believe...” What exactly? In today’s polarized world, many could start arguing the matters of faith at this point. But that’s not exactly what we’re talking about here. According to the author, that the leitmotif of the exhibition is "Where reality ends, fiction begins". As others have written, looking at the photos, it's hard to tell which of these worlds it is. They intertwine. As the photographer does not name her photos, it is entirely up to the viewer to process them him/herself, including the emotions they evoke. And those emotions can range from joy to shock to sadness and melancholy. Whatever your mood, you are likely to find something that will speak to you. And if all of that is not enough, and you are looking for something more, why not wake up your inner child and find joy on the little swing set that’s been installed in the space. You will have fun and see the photos from yet another vantage point.

Ready to go? You still have plenty of opportunity. The show runs at the current location at Všeobecna fakultní nemocnice in Praha 2 (VFN, U nemocnice 2, Praha) through October 15.

WHAT TO SEE IF YOU'RE IN PHILADELPHIA FOR 24 HOURS AND LOVE ART

Philadelphia is well known for its important role in American history. But, what about if you love art and have a day to visit? Rest assured, there is plenty of great art to see. Let’s go!

PHILADELPHIA ART MUSEUM

The Philadelphia Museum of Art is well known for the great collection it houses. It definitely holds its own compared to its better known neighbors in New York City and Washington, DC. The 240,000 works inside cover 2,000 years of history, including pieces from the ancient world, medieval times, the Renaissance, the Impressionist movement, modern art all the way to the contemporary. From Cezanne and Van Gogh through Picasso, Cy Twombly, all the way to Sam Gilliam. One of my personal favorites are the works by Constantin Brancusi that I never forget to visit. The museum also has a wonderful collection of Asian art, including a little tea house and zen garden where you can just feel the stress sliding off your shoulders.

The architecture buffs will also appreciate the recent renovation led by Frank Gehry which added a new North entrance and a number of new galleries and public spaces.

Last, but not least, there is also a little treat for the Rocky film franchise lovers. Yes, these are the steps to run up and do your best Stallone impression. You can even take a selfie with the plaque that is embedded in the pavement at the top.

RODIN MUSEUM

Headed from the Philadelphia Art Museum back to Center City? Don’t forget to make a stop at another little gem, The Rodin Museum (good news: your art museum ticket will get you a free entrance here, too). Housed in a small pavilion surrounded by a beautiful garden and guarded by none other than The Thinker out front, the museum is home to many smaller versions of the artist’s famous works - from Balzac portraits, to his famed studies of human hands. More sculptures are sprinkled throughout the garden, including The Three Shades, and The Burghers of Calais. Stop by. All together, this is one of the largest collection of Rodin’s sculptures outside of Paris. In the spring and summer, this place is delightful.

BARNES FOUNDATION

If you like impressionism, post-impressionism and modern art, you must make this one of your stops. And, get ready to be overwhelmed. You will not see this many Renoirs side by side on a single wall anywhere else. The collection was built by Dr. Albert C. Barnes (1872-1951), who believed that art had the power to improve and change lives. Having enjoyed early career success, he started collecting art at age 40, and over three decades, amassed an impressive collection of works by the world's most important artists, including Renoir, Cézanne, Matisse, Modigliani (my personal favorite) and Picasso. Today, experts estimate the value of the collection at 20-30 billion dollars.

Originally housed in a special-purpose built mansion in Merion, Pennsylvania, the Barnes Foundation was moved to its current location in Center City Philadelphia in 2012. It was not without controversy. Detractors still point out that moving the collection from a neoclassical building in Merion to a postmodern raw stone and glass building designed by Billie Tsien undermined the vision Dr. Barnes laid out in his will. The curators defend themselves by saying that inside it is as if the dimensions of the old gallery were perfectly copied. It was also mandated: In order for the judge to approve the gallery move, the foundation promised to keep the dimensions of the original galleries and to replicate the quirky "ensembles" of paintings, furniture and metalwork the same way that Albert Barnes originally conceived and arranged them. Even the burlap on the walls looks the same. However, the architects found a way to incorporate natural light into almost every room. This accentuates the colors in images - a big improvement.

Be ready: When you walk in, you will be overwhelmed by the sheer amount of art. Where else in the world can you find five Renoir paintings sharing the same wall with several Picassos, Matisses, Modigliani and maybe two Degas paintings? All this next to African masks, Native American jewelry, Greek antiques... And that's just one wall in one room... and believe me, there are many rooms where you can admire a similar collection. You won't see anything like this anywhere in the world. Go see it. Even this thoroughly contemporary art lover approves.

FIRST FRIDAY

If you're in town during the first Friday of each month, don't miss a chance to explore Philly's incredible art scene, First Friday. This is when the galleries around the city throw their doors open and art lovers pour through many of the galleries in the Old City Arts District. The 40-plus galleries that are scattered between Front and Third, and Market and Vine Streets, show everything from contemporary works in various mediums to ceramic arts. It's a refreshing way to unwind after work or start the weekend out with something different when you're in town.

NEED TO PUT YOUR FEET UP? A COUPLE OF PLACES TO STAY

And, since you may need to put your feet up and relax somewhere for the night after all that art, here are a couple of my tips for places.

KIMPTON PALOMAR. Plopped right in Center City near Rittenhouse Square, the hotel is built in the former headquarters of the American Institute of Architects. And, to go with he theme, it has incorporated art and architecture into the experience, with contemporary art by Philadelphia artists throughout the property. The rest of the accommodations are pretty nice too, with Frette linens, L’Occitane amenities, marble vanities and recycled glass tiles in the bathrooms.

WM MULHERIN’S SONS. And now for a slightly different experience. If you like industrial chic, this small boutique hotel in Fishtown may be the right destination for you. There are only a few rooms but they feature exposed brick, arched windows and clawfoot tubs. And, if that’s not enough on its own, there are some bonus points: lots of great eateries and music venues are nearby for your enjoyment

So, have I tempted you yet? Hop on the train or in the car, Philly has much to offer!